foundations

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foundations

Postby Nigel » Wed Dec 19, 2012 9:28 pm

Foundations for new builds and repairs can be discussed here.
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Re: foundations

Postby david perry » Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:06 pm

Existing/old wall. If the foundations at ground level are solid enough I don't normally move them. They've long since settled and moved so any voids or hollows have long since gone. Obviously if the foundations have tilted substantially then they need digging out.

If it is necessary to remove the foundations stones then dig down to hard solid clay so that you are not building on top soil or anything that is soft and can be easily compressed. Footprints indicate soft soil..

If it is impossible to level the foundation soil completely then I use stone fill, compacted with a sledge to fill in any voids. Any stone fill used in this way should be below the level of the existing soil.

Most instructional books will tell you to use the largest stones as foundation stones. But if you then end up using stones which have irregular bottom (which will cause settlement) surfaces then it may be worth while using the largest stones available with flat bottoms, even if they are not the largest stones. Using the stones with the largest flat surface area on the bottom means the stones won't tilt and any settlement will be minimal if at all.

Fill any gaps between your two rows of stones with a combination of the biggest stones you can fit between them and smaller stuff to fill any voids up. This will prevent settlement/compression of the middle of the wall making the whole of the foundation level as solid as possible.
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Re: foundations

Postby bricksetter » Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:26 pm

Hi everyone, just thinking now, would large stones for a good solid base if they are available, as i know there are a few wallers on here who only have small boulders and if small boulders are only available, whats the best way to pack and pin these for a good solid foundation.
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Fri Nov 22, 2013 5:32 pm

A big thankyou to both of you, without your help this will sink like a stone....
John with smaller stone the heart of the wall is much more important than the face here, I have never walled with the shapes you describe so I hope someone here more accustomed to the stone will help..
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Re: foundations

Postby jerryg » Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:11 pm

Well done Kev, you have drawn me out. Beware of Nigel though, cos if this gets interesting it will be taken from here to the private members bit.

One of my basically basic basics is to always lay whatever stone I put on my wall in such a way to make it easier to do the next course on top. This will obviously be easier if all the flat surfaces are placed upwards.

Therefore I couldn't disagree more with Dave Perry's point "if you then end up using foundation stones which have irregular bottoms this will cause settlement"

If you have a big stone with a irregular top/bottom and a flat bottom/top I would always put the lumpy side downwards. As the foundation is the only place you can make the base fit the stone, put lumpy side downwards into a specially dug hole, then you have the flat top to put your next course on.

also big very flat stones used as foundations have more chance of moving than a dug in round bottomed one. Better to use big flats as throughs.
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Re: foundations

Postby jerryg » Fri Nov 22, 2013 6:23 pm

bricksetter wrote:Hi everyone, just thinking now, would large stones for a good solid base if they are available, as i know there are a few wallers on here who only have small boulders and if small boulders are only available, whats the best way to pack and pin these for a good solid foundation.


There is never anything wrong with building any wall anywhere with only the stone you have at your disposal.

Up here in the Lakes there are places where the stone is all smallish, apart from throughs or topstones. Never ever get drawn into using the larger tops/throughs as base stones, these have a greater need where they need to be.

I see no different way to fill the base if you have big or little boulders. Everything tightly placed whatever the wall. The fill should be as big as you can get in, as you don't want the middle of the base to sink. Definitely no soil and I wouldn't bother with gravel sized filling either.
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Fri Nov 22, 2013 7:08 pm

Sorry to draw you out Jerry, glad you are here but it was not my intention...
don't think the members area would know what to do with walling basics....
Bricksetter's question is right up your street, I said the heart was important but what do I know????
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Oh I wish I could type faster, You had the answer in before I had the question in Jerry, (censored) :lol: :lol:
ha ha I got censored on booger :lol: :lol:
Last edited by waller 69 on Sun Nov 24, 2013 9:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: foundations

Postby bricksetter » Fri Nov 22, 2013 9:10 pm

Thats very intresting reading, thank you all for that, i can deffiently agree uneven stones face down in to the earth, leaving the flat side up for your next course, give you a clean "so called " slate to work from all over again, a methodical and senisble way of working, i like!.

When setting out our foundations, would it be methodical to decide what height we want to go and then get down at set out the bedth on a single course all the way along, what ever length we are building,

i like to build by eye, i dont want to be using profiles. you see this is part the reason why i ask, and also this question slightly leans in to the other thread of batter. sorry. :D :)
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:25 am

I tend to wall in short sections, 6m or so. For a complete rebuild I would start at the "cheak end", build in a couple of m's so I can have a nice set of courses to tie into....
The cheakend although built (in my case) freehand, works like any profile would, It gives me width of base, batter and height....
Has long as that first bit is right, I only have to copy the dimensions with the rest of the wall and it all should be right, by eye or using lines
Care should be taken across dips though as the change in height means the base is wider to maintain the batter...
Hope that makes sense...
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Re: foundations

Postby bricksetter » Sun Nov 24, 2013 5:37 pm

waller 69 wrote:I tend to wall in short sections, 6m or so. For a complete rebuild I would start at the "cheak end", build in a couple of m's so I can have a nice set of courses to tie into....
The cheakend although built (in my case) freehand, works like any profile would, It gives me width of base, batter and height....
Has long as that first bit is right, I only have to copy the dimensions with the rest of the wall and it all should be right, by eye or using lines
Care should be taken across dips though as the change in height means the base is wider to maintain the batter...
Hope that makes sense...


Yes makes perfect sense to me, thanks for your opinion. :D
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Re: foundations

Postby david perry » Mon Nov 25, 2013 4:22 pm

Errr, I don't necessarily disagree with JerryG or Bricksetter regarding using irregular stones. But considering this was a 'Walling Basics" I had made the assumption that we might need to keep it simple - which I thought I was doing. The basics????
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Wed Nov 27, 2013 5:29 pm

I must admit Dave, keeping things here "basic", I am having trouble with....I keep telling myself, treat it like its their first day...
So I thank you for your input
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Fri Nov 29, 2013 5:35 pm

I have dumped one to place this...
I have always believed the foundation of a wall is the most critical part of the wall, mistakes or flaws here can and will effect every stone I placed above, as someone who makes a living (at times) from walling, I would say I lose time on bases...
I know I can get away with many things higher in a wall, screw up the top course of stones and you may only lose a few toppers, big deal, screw up the base, you lose the wall in my mind...
Just the feelings of a waller from the North cotswolds :wink:
So if you have flatish stone, big enough to go in the base, how would you test if it was sound? STAND ON IT!!, if you like wiggle your hips a little, If it moves, Its not sound.....Either dig it in better, or use decent pins to stop it moving...
a DECENT pin is 50% of the stone, Ish, in my world :wink:
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Re: foundations

Postby waller 69 » Wed Feb 26, 2014 11:55 pm

Massive mistake on my part, big tail in the base, not big stone, I don't know how I could get it so wrong :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:
To explain, few singular faults bring a wall down, however traced stones low in a wall tip, and can do just that,its about the worst thing you can do in walling....
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