Walling Tips and Tricks

For discussing walling related subjects not included in other headings.

Postby Tracey B » Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:46 pm

You guys and your measuring of body parts...you're so competetive. Why don't y'all just go out and buy a Porche?
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Body parts

Postby ProDyker » Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:47 pm

For very rough estimates of size,the civilizations of yester year discovered very quickly there was more accurate methods of measurement. Myself i find a £4.99 tape measure from Wickes dose a good job and dos"nt endanger any body parts. As you say each to their own.
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Postby jerryg » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:13 pm

Hey Tracy, I have a Porche already, it's where I put my wellies on before I get in my Landy. :lol:
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Postby xborderdyker » Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:37 pm

i find a batter frame is invaluable it is that easy to use once the height of the new dyke has been established. set it will a measure and thats it you can mark the through stones on the wood and the nail holes are the same time and again. i set it about 12 metres every day and that does me and my partner for the day. the {EYE] well good on you for building with out a string line, what happens when dyke goes above eye level?
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Postby Sam Usborne » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:19 pm

Somebody mentioned about throwing away your batter frames, I completley agree, its not engineering! Your eye will create a nicer job, The odd wiggle maybe, but still surprisingly straight with practice. Look down at your wall from above, to make sure you build slightly off vertical , the batter will become a natural habbit
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Postby xborderdyker » Thu Mar 13, 2008 9:32 pm

if there is no use for a batter frame what is one doing on the dswa first page :?: :o it is not engineering sure but some of us are trying to do the job the quickly, what can be more simple than the same batter all the time with holes for your throughs and then covers :lol:
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batterframes etc

Postby donald » Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:47 pm

Batter frames are mostly just good for cheekends, they only get in the way otherwise,and are hard to set up, height/angle/etc.
Use line bars(pins) and a spacer with 2 holes for one size, or 3 holes for 2sizes! Adjustable spacers(btcv handbook) are fiddly and can move.With a wooden spacer you know the top width isnt going to be wrong as long as its held by a bungee.When the wall reaches the line bars, build right through(try that with a batter frame), when you need more line bars for the next section, pull out the ones you've built through.
As for "following the lie of the land"
Consider a wall built where a driveway is going in, the ground will be uneven,by a lot sometimes, and if the irregularities were followed the finished top will be following irregularities no longer present once the driveway is paved.The top would have to follow a curve, or a rise or drop in a smooth line to follow the finished landscaping, even when some parts of the construction do not exist yet.
Spirit levels confuse the issue, a wall is hardly ever "spot on" level.
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Inside and Outside Curves

Postby Yseesee » Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:29 am

I’m looking for tips on how to maintain the correct batter when build inside and outside curves while constructing a retaining wall. For those of you who have plenty of experience please don’t just say “by eye” because that really doesn’t help those of us who are struggling with the process. As for me anyway, my eyes aren’t achieving satisfactory results! :?

Tracey B provided me with some information on this subject before but I’ve misplaced it and I’m looking for other ideas on this subject. If it’s posted here I won’t loose it. :D
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Postby johnthedyker » Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:49 pm

I have a spirit level with an adjustable bubble which I set to the angle of batter,once you have your curve defined by your base stones build to height following the bead of the level Dress of outside edges of stone with a pitcher or suitable bolster/chissel. I think this may help your eye.
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Postby Tracey B » Sun Apr 13, 2008 6:22 pm

Hurray, John, you're back, the forum has been missing your input. Where ya bin? Building French walls made of nougat or whatever it was?
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Postby johnthedyker » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:31 pm

No nougat as yet that still to come, mostly West Coast Argyll lots of rain and wind in yer face kinda dyking but with the original Loch Fyne Oyster bar within walking distance and the estate having their own real ale brewery the weeks and months just slipped by. we were doing a fank which was great fun as you can "borrow" stone from the dyke behind you to build with and you are also stripping down the next dyke you build working your way accross the fank you then only have to bring stone into the opposite external dyke. Doing one job and getting paid for two keeps a smile on yer face on even the wettest of days. oh by the way happy new year dykers every where.
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Postby Tracey B » Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:16 pm

.......oysters eh? You're a posh lot north of the border. In Yorkshire yer lucky to get a bit of bread and dripping. Um John, what the heck is a fank?
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Inside and Outside Curves

Postby Yseesee » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:08 am

Now that’s the type of trick I was looking for, something I can actually use. Thanks John!!

I had no idea they even made such a thing. I thought all levels were the same. I did a search on the Internet for “level with adjustable bubble” and I got back all kinds of results none of which were very helpful. I found what I was looking for when I searched for “360° adjustable vial”. I can’t wait to give this tip a try, I can see how this will be very helpful.
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Re: Inside and Outside Curves

Postby johnthedyker » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:59 pm

[quote="Yseesee"][color=blue]Now that’s the type of trick I was looking for, something I can actually use. Thanks John!!
You are welcome, it enables you to get rid of A frames,wherever your wall wanders uphill downhill wavy curves 90 degree angles any which way stick your re-bar in the ground set it to your adjusted bubble voila perfect face batter.
Another good one for walls of varying height;
set 2 pins in the ground 14" apart (top of wall width)
find centre on ground (7") measure 60" on ground mark with a pin. This gives you a centre line, measure out at right angles 15" each side.This gives you your base width. With building line connect up all the pins at ground level. This gives you your wall profile. Now knowing that your cope size is constant any variations in height can be measured from the 15" line down to find out what width to make your base. Keep this profile marked out on the ground as a reference. happy walling.
ps Tracey a fank is sheep pens with various holding/working areas.
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retaining wall batter

Postby david perry » Tue Apr 22, 2008 2:38 pm

If you don't have one of those levels with a rotating bubble housing to fix the batter which I don't then I use the following:-

Three lengths of wood. the two longer bits (say four feet) are fixed at the bottom. The bottom is placed against the wall and one length is set using your level in the vertical position, the other fixed bit is laid at the batter angle you wish to use and a smaller bit of wood is nailed or fixed to hold these two bits in place at the correct angle. If you don't have a good eye for keeping the upright bit vertical then you can obviously hold the spirit level against it, or use a bit of string nailed on the side, weighted at the bottom and this should help you keep is vertical whilst you check the batter.

You have then made yourself a larger version of a joiners adjustable bevel but fixed at the correct angle.
I just like stone!!

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